ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LIPOPHILIC GELIFIER, AT LEAST ONE PARTICULAR CHARGE AND A FATTY P

专利摘要:
The subject of the present invention is an anhydrous composition comprising: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent; from 20% to 50% by weight of at least one filler chosen from porous silica spherical particles, spherical cellulose particles, and N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 20% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, alcohol derivatives Guerbet, preferably Guerbet alcohols and fatty acid esters of Guerbet alcohol, ethers of fatty alcohols having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition in accordance with the invention makes it possible to have a comfortable anhydrous soft-focus treatment, that is to say, to matify and / or optically smooth the microrelief of the skin, to fill wrinkles, hide imperfections of the skin, better reflect the light while providing a pleasant touch and a new sensoriality, that oily care non-greasy or sticky, powdered transformation especially when applied and on a velvety skin finish and that leaves the skin breathe.
公开号:FR3022776A1
申请号:FR1456211
申请日:2014-06-30
公开日:2016-01-01
发明作者:Valerie Page；Sophie Guilbaud；Celine Demarcq
申请人:LOreal SA；
IPC主号:

专利说明:

[0001] The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition comprising from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent, from 20% to 50% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles cellulose, and the N-acylated amino acid powders, and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 20% by weight of at least one oil selected from hydrocarbon-based oils. vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet fatty acid esters of alcohol, fatty alcohol ethers having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms , and linear alkanes. The invention relates in particular to the cosmetic field, and in particular the field of care and / or makeup of keratinous substances, in particular the skin, lips, hair or nails, preferably the skin. In the field of cosmetic care and / or make-up compositions for the skin, it is known to use mineral or organic fillers with a "soft-focus" fluffing effect that absorbs fat, provides a blushing "photoshop" effect, as well as a soft touch, to matify the skin, and / or optically smooth the microrelief, fill wrinkles, hide skin imperfections and better reflect the light. However, the use of these loads is generally accompanied by a dry touch, rein, lint, white traces and a lack of rhédibitoire comfort for the user. In order to remedy this problem and to have a comfortable care having a blooming effect, oily galenics are currently proposed on the cosmetic market. However, they have the drawbacks associated with the presence of high levels of fat phase in the composition, namely the obtaining of a shiny skin and / or the sensation of oily and / or sticky skin. To answer this problem, the use of cross-linked silicones is also known. This type of raw material makes it possible to combine matte effect and soft-focus, but has the disadvantage of being characterized by a greasy touch and warm uncomfortable, with a "mask" effect. Thus, it is difficult to reconcile in the same composition opposing technical performance such as for example dullness (which can make the skin dry) and hydration (which can make the skin shiny). It remains difficult for those skilled in the art to provide homogeneous compositions capable of providing an immediate visual result on the skin with a sensation of lightness and comfort at application, the immediate result expected being preferentially a good coverage of color imperfections and / or relief imperfections.
[0002] There is therefore still a need to prepare cosmetic compositions that solve the technical problem of mattifying and / or optically smoothing the microrelief of the skin, to fill in the wrinkles, to conceal skin imperfections and to better reflect the light while providing a pleasant feeling, in particular when applied, a soft skin finish with no "mask" effect and which allows the skin to breathe. The Applicant has discovered that this need can be met by combining, in an anhydrous composition comprising a suitably selected fatty phase, a lipophilic gelling agent and suitably selected fillers, in appropriate amounts. This association makes it possible to answer the problematic mentioned above by proposing an oily galenic, strong of a new sensoriality as much to the application as on the skin finish without neglecting the cosmetic qualities.
[0003] More specifically, the subject of the present invention is an anhydrous composition comprising: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent; from 20% to 50% by weight of at least one filler chosen from porous silica spherical particles, spherical cellulose particles, and N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 20% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, alcohol derivatives Guerbet, preferably Guerbet alcohols and fatty acid esters of Guerbet alcohol, ethers of fatty alcohols having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent; from 20% to 50% by weight of at least one filler chosen from porous silica spherical particles, spherical cellulose particles, and N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, alcohol derivatives Guerbet, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, and linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention makes it possible to obtain a new galenic product that is particularly interesting with regard to its technical performances and the sensory sensations it gives to the user when it is applied to keratinous substances, and in particular to the skin. Thus, the composition in accordance with the invention makes it possible to have a comfortable anhydrous care with a "soft-focus" effect, that is to say, to mattify and / or optically smooth the skin's microrelief, to fill the wrinkles, hide imperfections of the skin, better reflect the light while providing a pleasant touch and a new sensoriality, that of a oily care non-greasy and non-sticky, powdered transformation especially during its application, with a velvety skin finish and that lets the skin breathe.
[0004] The composition meets the need of consumers to have available an oily product without having the disadvantages of application and skin finish generated by a type of conventional oily galenic. Comfort at the application is reflected in particular by a lack of tightness, feeling of dryness and / or sticky and / or greasy sensations.
[0005] The composition according to the invention is stable, especially in time and / or temperature variations, while having good cosmetic and sensory properties. It brings all the benefits of an oil without the greasy feel or the shiny appearance. The skin finish is homogeneous and comfortable. The composition respects the skin, it is pleasant, does not leave the skin greasy or sticky. The texture is soft and pleasant, easy grip. It brings an optical and tactile effect to correct surface and immediately the appearance of the skin, by reducing the shadow areas of the skin relief such as wrinkles, fine lines, enlarged pores and other skin imperfections. It blurs the signs of fatigue. It smoothes and refines the grain of the skin, restores radiance and freshness, for a natural result. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the makeup and / or care of keratinous materials comprising a step of applying a composition as defined above to said keratin materials. Since the composition of the invention is intended for topical application to the skin or superficial body growths, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium that is compatible with all the keratin materials such as the skin, the nails, the mucous membranes and keratin fibers (such as hair, eyelashes). By "anhydrous", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a composition comprising a content less than or equal to 1% by weight of water, preferably less than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition or even free of water. If necessary, such small amounts of water may in particular be brought by ingredients of the composition which may contain residual amounts. In what follows, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field.
[0006] Lipophilic Gelling Agents The term "lipophilic gelling agent", within the meaning of the present invention, means a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.
[0007] The lipophilic gelling agent (s) is liposoluble or lipodispersible. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the lipophilic gelling agent (s) are organic or inorganic. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the lipophilic gelling agent (s) are non-silicones. The gelling agent (s) that may be used in the context of the invention may be organic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents. As examples of lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the context of the invention, mention may be made of potassium-modified natural micas such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicate, in particular that marketed by the company. SENSIENT under the name SUBMICA M, dextrin esters such as dextrin palmitate, in particular that marketed by the company CHIBA FLOUR MILLING under the name RHEOPEARL TL2-OR, or dextrin palmitate marketed by the same company under the name denomination RHEOPEARL KL2-OR, as well as the dextrin myristate, in particular that marketed by the company CHIBA FLOUR MILLING under the name RHEOPEARL MKL2, tri-esters of fatty acid and mono or polyglycerol such as tri-hydroxy glyceryl stearate, in particular that marketed by the company ELEMENTIS under the name THIXCIN R. It may also be mentioned RHEOCIN marketed by the company BYK ADDITIVES & INSTRUMENTS. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the lipophilic gelling agent (s) is organic. According to a particular embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent (s) that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters and tri-esters of fatty acid and mono or polyglycerol. Dextrin and Fatty Acid Esters The dextrin and fatty acid esters used according to the invention may be chosen in particular from dextrin mono- or poly-ester and from at least one fatty acid corresponding to the formula (C ): Wherein n is an integer ranging from 3 to 150, especially from 10 to 100, and preferably from 15 to 40; The radicals R1, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R-00-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, in particular 8 to 30, or even 12 to 22, and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R1, R2 and R3 is other than a hydrogen atom. In particular, R1, R2 and R3 may represent hydrogen or an acyl group (R-00-) in which R is a hydrocarbon radical as defined above, provided that at least two of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 are identical and different from hydrogen. All of the radicals R1, R2 and R3 may include an acyl group (R-00) identical or different and in particular identical. The radical R-00- of the dextrin ester of formula (O) can in particular be chosen from the radicals caprylyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutyryl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptanyl, 2-ethyl hexanyl, isononanyl, isodecanyl, isotridecanyl, isomyristyl, isopalmityl, isostearyl, isohexanyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoleyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicyl, arachidonyl, stearolyl, and mixtures thereof. The radical R-00 is advantageously linear. R-00 is preferably the palmityl radical or the myristyl radical, and even more preferably the palmityl radical. n is preferably from 25 to 35, preferably from 27 to 33, and more preferably equal to 30. Preferably, at least one dextrin palmitate is used as dextrin ester and fatty acid (s). and / or at least one dextrin myristate. These can be used alone or mixed with other esters. Advantageously, the ester of dextrin and of fatty acid has a degree of substitution less than or equal to 2.5 on the basis of a glucose unit, in particular ranging from 1.5 to 2.5. The weight average molecular weight of the dextrin ester may be in particular from 10,000 to 150,000, especially from 12,000 to 100,000 and even from 15,000 to 80,000. Dextrin esters are commercially available, in particular dextrin palmitates, for example under the name RHEOPEARL TL2-OR or RHEOPEARL KL2-OR from the company CHIBA FLOUR MILLING, and under the name RHEOPEARL KS from the company CHIBA FLOUR MILLING, and dextrin myristates, for example under the name RHEOPEARL MKL2 from the company CHIBA FLOUR MILLING.
[0008] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, use will be made of a mixture of a dextrin and fatty acid ester whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit and a dextrin ester and of fatty acid whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, as described in application FR 2 843 020. According to one embodiment, the dextrin and acid ester wherein the degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit advantageously corresponds to the following formula (IV): ## STR3 ## wherein: the radicals R 1, R 2 and R 3 represent an atom of hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, especially 8 to 30, or even 12 to 22 and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. carbon, provided that at least one of said radicals R1, R2 and R3 is different from a hydro atom uncomfortable ; n is an integer ranging from 3 to 150, especially from 10 to 100, and preferably from 15 to 40.
[0009] The radical R-00- of the dextrin ester of formula (IV) can in particular be chosen from the radicals caprylyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutyryl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptanyl , 2-ethylhexanyl, isononanyl, isodecanyl, isotridecanyl, isomyristyl, isopalmityl, isostearyl, isohexanyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoleyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicyl, arachidonyl, stearolyl, and their mixtures. The radical R-00 is advantageously linear. The radical R-00 is preferably the palmityl radical or the myristyl radical, and even more preferably the palmityl radical. n is preferably from 25 to 35, preferably from 27 to 33, and more preferably 30.
[0010] Preferably, a fatty acid dextrin ester is used, the degree of substitution of which is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, such that the degree of substitution is less than 1.9, preferably less than 1, 8, more preferably is between 1.5 and 1.7. Some of these dextrin esters are commercially available, especially under the name RHEOPEARL TL from Chiba Flour Milling. The weight average molecular weight of the dextrin ester and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit is preferably between 10,000 and 30,000, more preferably between 15,000 and 20,000. . The weight average molecular weight is determined by gas chromatography with a polystyrene calibration. According to one embodiment, the ester of dextrin and of fatty acid whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit corresponds to the formula (V): (V) in which: radicals R'1, R'2 and R'3, which are identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R'-CO-) in which the radical R 'is a linear or branched hydrocarbon group; saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, especially 8 to 30, or even 12 to 22 and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R'1, R'2 and R'3 is different of a hydrogen atom, n is an integer ranging from 3 to 150, especially from 10 to 100, and preferably from 15 to 40. R 'and n may have the same meaning as R and n described above.
[0011] Advantageously, the radicals R'1, R'2 and R'3 are identical, provided that at least one of said radicals R'1, R'2 and R'3 is different from a hydrogen atom. Preferably, a fatty acid dextrin ester is used, the degree of substitution of which is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit, such that the degree of substitution is greater than 2.1, preferably between 2, 1 and 2,3.
[0012] The weight average molecular weight of the dextrin ester and fatty acid whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of a glucose unit is preferably between 10,000 and 30,000, more preferably between 15,000 and 20,000. . The weight average molecular weight is determined by gas chromatography with a polystyrene calibration.
[0013] As examples of dextrin esters of formula (V) according to the invention, there may be mentioned Rheopearl KL sold by the company CHIBA FLOUR MI LLI NG.
[0014] Mono or polyglycerol fatty acid tri-esters According to a particular embodiment, the mono- or polyglycerol fatty acid tri-ester or esters are tri-esters of fatty acid and of monoglycerol.
[0015] By fatty acid is meant a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acid comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 12 to 22, and better still from 16 to 20 atoms. of carbon, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid or acids are linear, saturated, substituted by at least one hydroxyl group. The fatty acids may be chosen from oleic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid, capric acid, behenic acid, substituted or unsubstituted by at least one hydroxyl group, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty acid or acids are chosen from stearic acid, stearic acids substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, and mixtures thereof, more preferably they are chosen from stearic acid and 12-hydroxy stearic acid, and mixtures thereof, and most preferably it is 12-hydroxy stearic acid. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the glyceryl tri-ester is glyceryl tris (12-hydroxystearate).
[0016] As examples of tri-ester of fatty acid and mono or polyglycerol, mention may be made of the glyceryl tri- (hydroxystater) (INCI name: TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN), for example that marketed by the company ELEMENTIS under the name THIXCIN R or that marketed by the company BYK ADDITIVES & INSTRUMENTS under the name RHEOCI N.
[0017] According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the lipophilic gelling agent (s) that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin palmitate and dextrin myristate. According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the lipophilic gelling agent (s) that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen from tri-esters of fatty acid and monoglycerol, preferably glyceryl tri (hydroxystearate), and even more preferentially glyceryl tris (12-hydroxystearate). The lipophilic gelling agent (s) is present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of between 3% and 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5% to 12% by weight, and even more preferably from 8% to , 5% to 10% by weight. Fillers The composition according to the invention comprises from 20% to 50% by weight of at least one filler chosen from porous silica spherical particles, spherical cellulose particles, and N-acylated amino acid powders. By filler, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. The fillers used in the present invention may be characterized by their specific surface area per unit mass or per unit volume, their size expressed in volume mean diameter D (4.3), their unpacked density, and / or their oil absorption.
[0018] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
[0019] The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: Sv = SM x p; where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm 3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above. In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, called the packed density: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated test tube; then the specimen is placed on the STAV 2003 device from STAMPF VOLUMETER; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of compacted powder is measured directly on the test piece. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g). The oil absorption capacity measured at the Wet Point, and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below: A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil in the powder, mixing is carried out with a spatula and oil is added until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this moment, the oil is added one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m. The charge sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 2000 commercial particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. According to a particular embodiment, the charges that can be used in the The present invention has an oil absorption capacity of from 0.25 g / g to 3.5 g / g, preferably from 0.93 g / g to 2.5 g / g, and even from 1.25 g / g to 2.5 g / g.
[0020] According to a particular embodiment, the fillers that can be used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume mean diameter D (4.3) ranging from 0.1 μM to 40 μm, preferably from 0.5 μM to 20 μm. pM, and even more preferably from 1 μM to 16 μM According to a particular embodiment, the fillers used in the present invention have a non-packed density ranging from 0.2 g / cm3 to 2.2 g / cm3. According to a particular embodiment, they have a specific surface area ranging from 30 to 1000 m2 / g, and more particularly from 150 to 800 m2 / g. Spherical particles are understood here to mean particles having the shape or substantially the shape of a sphere, insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (approximately 100 ° C. ). According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the spherical particles of porous silica are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed in volume mean diameter D (4.3) ranging from 0.5 to 30 μm, more particularly from 1 to 20 μm, and preferably from 1 to 16 μm.
[0021] As an example of porous silica microspheres, the following commercial products can be used: Silica Beads SB-150, SB-300 or SB 700, preferably SB 300 from the company Myoshi Kasei; the range of SUNSPHERE from Asahi Glass AGC SITECH including Sunsphere H-51 or Sunsphere 12L, Sunsphere H-201, H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 from Sunjin Company; Spherica P-1500 from Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere of Fuji Silysia; the ranges of Silica Pearl and Satinier from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more particularly the Satinier M13 and M16, the silicas MSS-500 from KOBO, and more particularly the MSS-500-20N, as well as the Silica Shells from the KOBO company. According to a particular embodiment, the spherical cellulose particles that can be used in the context of the invention are microparticles. Preferably, they have a size expressed in volume mean diameter D (4.3) ranging from 0.1 to 35 μm, preferably from 1 to 20 μm, and more particularly from 4 to 15 μm. As examples of spherical microparticles of cellulose, there may be mentioned the solid beads of cellulose sold under the names CELLULOBEADS D-10, CELLULOBEADS D-5 and CELLULOBEADS USF by the company DAITO KASEI KOGYO.
[0022] The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine, preferably lysine. According to one particular embodiment, the N-acyl amino acid or acids comprise an acyl group having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, it is the lauroyl group. Advantageously, the N-acylated amino acid powder may be a lauroyl lysine powder such as that marketed under the name AMIHOPE LL by the company AJINOMOTO or else that sold under the name CORUM 5105 S by the company CORUM.
[0023] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the fillers chosen from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles, and N-acylated amino acid powders have a heterogeneous particle size, that is to say a large size distribution for a size expressed in average diameter by volume given.
[0024] The composition according to the invention comprises from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 25% to 35% by weight of the total weight of the composition, of at least one filler chosen from spherical porous silica particles, spherical particles of cellulose, and N-acylated amino acid powders.
[0025] According to a first particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 25% to 50% by weight, preferably from 25% to 35% by weight of the total weight of the composition, of at least one filler chosen from spherical particles of porous silica. According to a second particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 25% to 50% by weight, preferably from 25% to 35% by weight of the total weight of the composition, of at least one filler chosen from spherical particles of cellulose.
[0026] According to a third particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 25% to 50% by weight, preferably from 25% to 35% by weight of the total weight of the composition, of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders. According to a fourth embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two fillers chosen from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles, and N-acylated amino acid powders. According to a specific mode, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two distinct charges one of the other one of which is chosen from spherical porous silica particles, in particular spherical microparticles of porous silica, and another is selected from spherical cellulose particles and N-acylated amino acid powders. In particular, the composition may comprise at least two charges that are distinct from one another, one of which is chosen from spherical cellulose particles and the other is chosen from porous silica spherical particles, in particular spherical microparticles. of porous silica.
[0027] The composition may also comprise at least two distinct charges one of which is chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders and the other is chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, in particular spherical microparticles of porous silica. According to a fifth particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least three fillers chosen from porous silica spherical particles, spherical cellulose particles, and N-acylated amino acid powders. According to a specific mode, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least three charges that are distinct from one another, the first of which is chosen from porous silica spherical particles, in particular spherical microparticles of porous silica, the second is chosen from spherical particles of cellulose, and the third is selected from N-acylated amino acid powders. The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional charge different from porous silica spherical particles, spherical cellulose particles, and N-acylated amino acid powders. The additional charge (s) may be, in particular, organic fillers and / or inorganic fillers. The additional charge (s) can also be characterized by their specific surface area per unit mass or per unit volume, their size expressed in volume mean diameter D (4.3), their unpacked density, and / or their capacity to oil absorption. The definition and methods of measurement of these parameters have been described previously for the fillers chosen from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles, and N-acylated amino acid powders. According to one particular embodiment, the additional charge (s) that can be used in the present invention an oil absorption capacity of 0.25 g / g to 3.5 g / g, preferably 0.93 g / g. 2.5 g / g, or even 1.25 g / g to 2.5 g / g. According to a particular embodiment, the additional charge (s) that can be used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume mean diameter D (4.3) ranging from 0.1 μM to 40 μm, preferably 0.5 pM at 20 μM, and still more preferably from 1 μM to 16 μM According to a particular embodiment, the additional charge (s) that can be used in the present invention have a non-packed density ranging from 0.2 g / cm3 to 2.2 g / cm3.
[0028] Organic fillers As used herein, the term "organic filler" means any organic solid which is insoluble in the medium at room temperature (25 ° C.). By "organic" is meant any compound or polymer whose chemical structure comprises at least one or more carbon atoms.
[0029] As organic fillers that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the polyamide particles (nylon ()) and in particular those sold under the names ORGASOLC) by Atochem; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Polytrapc); polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name MICROSPHERE M-100® by the company Matsumoto or under the name COVABEAD LH85® by the company VVackherr; ethylene-acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name FLOBEADSC) by the company Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular microspheres formed of a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate and sold under the name EXPANCELC) by the company Kemanord Plast under the references 551 DE 12® (granulometry about 12 μm), 551 DE 20® (particle size of about 30 μm), 551 DE 50® (particle size of about 40 μm), or the microspheres sold under the name MICROPEARL F 80 EDC) by Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as polysaccharide powders, and in particular starch powders, especially corn, wheat or rice starch, crosslinked or otherwise, starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride; , sold under the name DRY-FLOC) by the company National Starch, waxy corn starch powders such as those sold under the names C * GEL 04201 by the company CARGILL, AMIDON DE MAIS B by the company ROQUETTE, and ORGANIC CORN STARCH by DRACO NATURAL PRODUCTS; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone, in particular Tospearl 240; the wax microdispersion particles, which preferably have average dimensions less than 25 μm, and especially ranging from 0.5 μm to 25 μm, and which consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes, such as the products marketed under the name Aquacer by Byk Cera, and in particular: Aquacer 520 (mixture of synthetic and natural waxes), Aquacer 514® or 513® (polyethylene wax), Aquacer 511® (polymeric wax), or such as the products sold under the name Jonwax 120 by Johnson Polymer (a blend of polyethylene wax and paraffin wax) and under the name Ceraflour 9610 by Byk Cera (micronized modified polyethylene wax); and their mixtures. Inorganic fillers As used herein, the term "inorganic filler" means any inorganic solid which is insoluble in the medium at room temperature (25 ° C.). By "inorganic" is meant any compound or polymer whose chemical structure does not include a carbon atom. As examples of additional inorganic fillers, mention may be made of zeolites such as the products sold by ZEOCHEM under the names ZEOFLAIR 25 300, ZEOFLAIR 200, ZEOFLAIR 100, X-MOL and X-MOL MT. A zeolite, or zeolite is a crystal formed of a microporous alumino-silicate skeleton, whose associated voids are initially occupied by cations and water molecules. They are also called molecular sieves. Mention may also be made of calcium magnesium carbonate such as those marketed by the company IMERYS under the name CALCIDOL by the company LCW (Sensient) under the name CARBOMAT, by the company OMYA under the name OMYACARE S 60-AV. It is also possible to mention lamellar inorganic particles such as talcs, micas, pearlescent agents and their mixtures. Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates most often comprising aluminum silicate. The crystalline structure of the talc consists of repeated layers of a brucite sandwich between silica layers. More particularly, the lamellar particles are chosen from talcs.
[0030] Advantageously, talc particles, such as those sold under the names LUZENAC PHARMA M and UM by the company IMERYS, ROSE TALC and TALC SG-2000 by the company Nippon Talc, are used more particularly in the composition of the invention. ; mica such as those sold under the names MICA M RP and SILK MICA by Merck; mica-titanium such as mica-titanium oxide-brown iron oxide (CTFA: Mica / Iron oxides / Titanium dioxide) sold under the name Cloinne Rouge Flame 440 X by the company Engelhard. As mica, there may be mentioned Mica sold under the name Sericite S-152-BC by the company Myoshi Kasei. Among the inorganic fillers, there may be mentioned perlite particles, and preferably expanded perlite particles. The perlites that can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have the following composition: 70.0-75.0% by weight of silica SiO2; 12.0-15.0% by weight aluminum oxide oxide A1203; 3.0-5.0% sodium oxide Na2O; 3.0-5.0% potassium oxide K2O; 0.5-2% iron oxide Fe2O3; 0.2-0.7% magnesium oxide MgO; 0.5-1.5% CaO calcium oxide; 0.05 - 0.15% TiO2 titanium oxide. There may be mentioned in particular pearlites marketed under the names OPTIMAT 2550 OR by the company WOELD MINERALS, EUROPERL EMP-2 and EUROPERL 1 by the company IMERYS.
[0031] The composition according to the invention comprises from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 25% to 35% by weight of the total weight of the composition, of at least one filler chosen from spherical porous silica particles, spherical particles of cellulose, and N-acylated amino acid powders. When the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one additional filler different from the fillers chosen from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles, and N-acylated amino acid powders, they are (are ) preferably present (s) in an amount at least equal to 0.1% by weight, and even more preferably between 5% and 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, when the composition comprises at least two distinct charges, one of which is chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, the mass ratio R (porous silica spherical particles) / (other charges) is greater than or equal to at 0.75, preferably between 0.75 and 3. Fat phase The composition according to the invention comprises from 40% to 85% by weight of the total weight of the composition of at least one fatty phase. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 45% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase. Preferably, the proportion of the fatty phase ranges from 45% to 75% by weight, and even more preferably from 57% to 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0032] This indicated amount does not include the content of lipophilic gelling agents such as those described above. For the purposes of the invention, the fatty phase includes any fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, generally oils, or that is solid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, such as waxes, or any pasty compound, present in the said fatty phase. Composition. The fatty substance (s) present in the composition may be chosen by those skilled in the art on the basis of their general knowledge, so as to confer on the final composition the desired properties, in particular in terms of rheological properties (measurement of penetrometry, flow, consistency), in terms of texture and stability. The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least 20% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol ethers having 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and linear alkanes. According to a particular embodiment, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, derivatives of Guerbet alcohol, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, and linear alkanes. According to another particular embodiment, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least 25% by weight of at least two oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, derivatives thereof. of Guerbet alcohol, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, and linear alkanes. By oils is meant fats liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure.
[0033] As hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, mention may be made of squalane, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, jojoba oils. , babassu, sunflower, olive, coconut, brazil nut, marula, corn, soy, squash, grape seed, flax, sesame, hazelnut, apricot , macadamia, arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides caprylic / capric acids such as those marketed by Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel , shea butter oil. According to one particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkanes, advantageously of plant origin, comprise from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms. As examples of volatile linear alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of those described in the patent application of Cognis WO 2007/068371. By way of example of a volatile linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (Ce), n-decane (010), n-undecane (011) and n-dodecane (012). , n-tridecane (013), n-tetradecane (014), n-pentadecane (015), n-hexadecane (016) and n-heptadecane (017) and mixtures thereof. According to a particularly preferred form, use will be made of a mixture of undecane (Cil) and tridecane (013), such as the product marketed under the reference CETIOL UT by Cognis. Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), such as those sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures. It is also possible to use Guerbet alcohols or derivatives of Guerbet alcohols, for example esters of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are obtained by conversion of an aliphatic primary alcohol to a beta-alkylene alcohol dimer via the following chemical reaction: ## STR1 ## This catalyst requires the presence of a catalyst such as hydroxides alkali metals or alkali metal alkoxides such as Raney nickel, and high temperatures. As Guerbet alcohols or derivatives of Guerbet alcohols, there may be mentioned octyldodecanol and octyldodecanol esters such as octyldodecyl myristate. In particular, mention may be made of octydodecanol such as that sold under the name EUTANOL G by the company COGNIS (BASF) and octyldodecyl myristate marketed under the name DUB MOD by the company GATTEFOSSE. The ethers of fatty alcohols that may be used in the context of the invention are fatty alcohol ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 12, and even more preferably from 8 to 10. These ethers can be obtained from two different fatty alcohols or two identical fatty alcohols. Preferably, they are obtained from two identical fatty acids such as caprylic alcohol (also called octan-1-ol or n-octanol). The corresponding ether is then dicaprylyl ether such as that marketed under the name Cetiol OE by Cognis. Additional oils According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional oil different from the oils chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, Guerbet alcohol derivatives, and linear alkanes. As oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: esters and synthetic ethers, in particular acids and / or fatty alcohols, such as the oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which RICO represents the remainder of a fatty acid or R1 represents the residue of a fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; - their mixtures.
[0034] Mention may also be made of the following oils: esters derived from the reaction of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms, and better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 6 to 16 carbon atoms and from at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and more preferably from 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of isopropyl myristate such as those sold under the name PALMESTER 1510 by the company KLK OLEO, under the name LEXOL IPM-NF by the company INOLEX CHEM ICAL COMPANY or under the name ISOPROPYLMYRISTATE by the company COGNIS (BASF), isopropyl isostearate such as that marketed under the name RADIA 7739 by the company Oleon, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl 2-hexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate) , 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate, such as that marketed under the name CETIOL CC by the company Cognis, - glycerol ethers comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms such as glycerol 2-ethyl hexyl ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin) such Sensiva SC 50 from Schulke & Mayr GmbH. In particular mention may be made of the mixture of caprylic / capric acid esters and of C12-C18 fatty alcohols, such as coco-caprylate / caprate sold under the name CETIOL LC by the company Cognis or under the name DUB 810. C by STEARINERIE DUBOIS; The polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, for instance the polyesters of dilinoleic acid and of diol marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast and in particular the polymer bearing the name INCI dilinoleic acid; propanediol copolymer; and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention may have a total content of oils ranging from 40% to 85% by weight, preferably from 45% to 75% by weight, better still from 57% to 70% relative to the total weight of the composition. . The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one solid fatty substance such as pasty compounds and waxes. Paste compound For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 23 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
[0035] A pasty compound is at a temperature of 23 ° C, in the form of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23 ° C., represents from 20 to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is more preferably 25 to 85%, and more preferably 30 to 60% by weight of the pasty compound. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32 ° C., preferably represents from 40 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound, more preferably from 50 to 100% by weight of the pasty compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32 ° C., is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. The pasty compound preferably has a hardness at 20 ° C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa. The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example the TA-XT2i 35 from Rhéo) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20 ° C in the center of 5 samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample, the depth of penetration being 0.3 mm. The measured value of the hardness is that of the maximum peak. The pasty compound is chosen from compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.
[0036] The pasty compound may be chosen in particular from isomericized jojoba oil such as isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-500, orange wax as, for example, the one that is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by Koster Keunen, cupuacu butter (Rain Forest RF3410 from Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from Beraca Sabara), shea butter, partially hydrogenated olive oil, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, cocoa butter, mango oil such as, for example, the company's Lipex 203 Aarhuskarlshamn and their mixtures.
[0037] Mention may also be made of mixtures of fatty acids and of fatty alcohol such as mixtures of lauryl alcohol and methyl laurate, stearic alcohol and methyl palmitate or methyl behenate, such as the range of Purester sold by the company Strahl & Pitsch, in particular lauryl laurate known under the trade name of Purester 24. Similarly, mention may be made of fatty acid esters of polyglycerol such as Polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate marketed by Aarhuskarlshamn under the name Akoline PGPR or a mixture of 3 jojoba esters & helianthus annus wax & acacia decurrens extract waxes and polyglyceryl such as the product sold under the name Hydracire S or Acticire® by Gatefossé. Hydrogenated glycerol esters such as, for example, the product sold under the name Cegesoft HF 52 by the company COGNIS (BASF), a blend of rapeseed and hydrofoil oils Ogenes or the product sold under the name Softisan 100 Cremer by OLEO. Mention may also be made of mixtures of fatty acid ester and mono- or polyglycerol such as glyceryl stearate, for example glyceryl stearate sold under the reference CUTINA GMS V by Cognis or sold by STEARINERIE DUBOIS under the name the name DUB GMS 50/50, when present, the amount of pasty compounds may range, for example, from 0.05% to 85% by weight, better still from 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0% to 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Waxes For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C., and up to 120 ° C. In particular, the waxes have a melting temperature above 30 ° C., and better still above 45 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. For the purposes of the present invention, hard wax is understood to mean a wax exhibiting at 20 ° C. a hardness greater than 5 MPa, in particular ranging from 5 to 30 MPa, preferably greater than 6 MPa, more preferably from 6 to 25 MPa. MPa. The hardness of the wax is determined by measuring the compressive strength measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2 by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. The measurement protocol is as follows: the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting temperature of the wax + 10 ° C. The melted wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C before making the measurement. hardness or stickiness. The mobile of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 0.1 mm / s, then penetrates into the wax to a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. When the mobile penetrated into the wax to the depth of 0.3 mm, the mobile is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and is removed at a speed of 0.5 mm / s.
[0038] The hardness value is the maximum measured compressive force divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax. As wax, it is advantageous to use waxes of plant origin, such as beeswax, in particular that marketed under the name WHITE BEESWAX SP 453P by the company STRAHL & PITSCH or CERABEIL LOR by the company BAERLOCHER, the wax of black wheat such as that marketed by the company CODIF, carnauba wax, candellila wax, especially the commercial reference CANDELILLA WAX SP 75 G from STRAHL & PITSCH, hydrogenated jojoba wax, sumac wax waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with the C12 to C18 chain fatty alcohol sold by SOPHIM in the Phytowax range (12L44, 14L48, 16L55 and 18L57), rice bran wax, cetyl, stearyl and behenic alcohols, laurel wax, Ouricury wax. It is also possible to use at least one behenic acid and glycerol acid ester, and in particular a mixture of behenic acid and glycerol esters, for example the glyceryl dibehenate, tribehenin and glyceryl behenate mixture marketed by Gattefossé under the name reference COM PRITOL 888 CG ATO. When present, the waxes may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.
[0039] The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and esters of fatty acid and Guerbet alcohol, fatty alcohol ethers containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and linear alkanes, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, derivatives of Guerbet alcohol, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, and linear alkanes. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, Guerbet alcohol derivatives. preferably Guerbet alcohols and fatty acid esters of Guerbet alcohol, fatty alcohol ethers containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and linear alkanes, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils. plant origin, preferably triglycerides, Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, and linear alkanes.
[0040] According to a first specific embodiment, the composition comprises from 40% to 85% by weight, preferably from 45% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils. of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, and Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters. According to a second specific embodiment, the composition comprises from 40% to 85% by weight, preferably from 45% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils. of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, and Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, and from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one oil selected from linear alkanes. According to a first specific embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably palmitate palmitate; dextrin; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical porous silica particles; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, alcohol derivatives Guerbet, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, and linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0041] According to a first particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin palmitate; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical porous silica particles; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet's fatty acid and alcohol; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0042] Preferably, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin palmitate; from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical particles of porous silica; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 30% by weight of at least one oil chosen from Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet's fatty acid and alcohol; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0043] According to a second particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin palmitate; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical porous silica particles; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0044] Preferably, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin palmitate; from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical particles of porous silica; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 30% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0045] According to a third particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin palmitate; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical porous silica particles; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least two oils, one of which is chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, and the other is selected from linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin palmitate; from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical particles of porous silica; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, preferably triglycerides, and at least 5% by weight of at least one oil selected from linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a second specific embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from tri-esters of fatty acid and mono or polyglycerol, such as glyceryl trihydroxy stearate; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, alcohol derivatives Guerbet, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, and linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0046] According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from tri-esters of fatty acid and of mono- or polyglycerol such as tri-hydroxy- glyceryl stearate; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least two oils, one of which is chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, and the other is selected from linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0047] Preferably, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from mono- or polyglycerol fatty acid tri-esters, such as glyceryl tri-hydroxystearate; from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 45% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 40% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, preferably triglycerides, and at least 5% by weight of at least one oil selected from linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0048] According to a third specific embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably the myristate of dextrin; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, alcohol derivatives Guerbet, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, and linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a first particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin myristate; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet's fatty acid and alcohol; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin myristate; from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 50% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 50% by weight of at least one oil chosen from Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet's fatty acid and alcohol; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0049] According to a second particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin myristate; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 20% to 30% by weight, of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0050] Preferably, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin myristate; from 20% to 30% by weight of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 60% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 60% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0051] According to a fourth specific embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from tri-esters of fatty acid and mono or polyglycerol, such as glyceryl trihydroxy stearate; from 20% to 50% by weight of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 20% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, alcohol derivatives Guerbet, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, and linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0052] According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from tri-esters of fatty acid and of mono- or polyglycerol such as tri-hydroxy- glyceryl stearate; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 20% to 30% by weight, of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 20% by weight of at least one oil selected from linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0053] Preferably, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from mono- or polyglycerol fatty acid tri-esters, such as glyceryl tri-hydroxystearate; from 20% to 30% by weight of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 20% by weight of at least one oil selected from linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a fifth specific embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably myristate dextrin; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 40% to 50% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical cellulose particles; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil selected from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, preferably triglycerides, derivatives thereof. Guerbet alcohol, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, and linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin myristate; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 40% to 50% by weight of at least one filler selected from spherical cellulose particles; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0054] Preferably, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin myristate; from 40% to 50% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical cellulose particles; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 40% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0055] According to a sixth specific embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from tri-esters of fatty acid and mono or polyglycerol, such as glyceryl trihydroxy stearate; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical cellulose particles; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, alcohol derivatives Guerbet, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, and linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from tri-esters of fatty acid and of mono- or polyglycerol such as tri-hydroxy- glyceryl stearate; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical cellulose particles; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least two oils, one of which is chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, and the other is selected from linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0056] Preferably, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from mono- or polyglycerol fatty acid tri-esters, such as glyceryl tri-hydroxystearate; from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical cellulose particles; and from 45% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, and at least 20% by weight of at least one oil selected from linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a seventh specific embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably palmitate palmitate; dextrin; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical cellulose particles; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, alcohol derivatives Guerbet, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, and linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin palmitate; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical cellulose particles; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet's fatty acid and alcohol; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin palmitate; from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical cellulose particles; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 30% by weight of at least one oil chosen from Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet's fatty acid and alcohol; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition. According to an eighth specific embodiment of the invention, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from tri-esters of fatty acid and mono or polyglycerol, such as glyceryl trihydroxy stearate; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, alcohol derivatives Guerbet, preferably Guerbet alcohols and fatty acid esters of Guerbet alcohol, ethers of fatty alcohols having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0057] According to a particular embodiment, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from tri-esters of fatty acid and of mono- or polyglycerol such as tri-hydroxy- glyceryl stearate; from 20% to 50% by weight, preferably from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from fatty alcohol ethers containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0058] Preferably, the anhydrous composition comprises: from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from mono- or polyglycerol fatty acid tri-esters, such as glyceryl tri-hydroxystearate; from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from fatty alcohol ethers containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0059] The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more polyols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. By "polyols" is meant any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerin, glycols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycol and 1,2-propane. -diol, propane-1,3-diol. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyol is chosen from glycerin and propane-1,3-diol. Preferably, the polyol is glycerin. By way of example, mention may be made of glycerine sold under the name GLYCERINE 4810 by the company Oleon or else under the name PALMERA G995V by the company KLK OLEO or under the name REFINED GLYCERINE 99.5% PH. EURO. by CARGILL. Propane-1,3-diol sold under the name ZEMEA PROPANEDIOL by Dupont Tate and Lyle Bio Products may also be mentioned. Butylene glycol marketed under the name 1,3-butylenglolol by the company ALZO may also be mentioned. Daicel. Propylene glycol sold under the name Radianol 4710 by the company Oleon may also be mentioned. The amount of polyols may range, for example, from 0% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 17% by weight, better still 4%. at 15% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more primary alcohols, that is to say an alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. It is preferably ethanol. The addition of such an alcohol may be particularly suitable when the composition according to the invention is used as a product for the body, face, or hair. The amount of primary alcohols may range, for example, from 0% to 35% by weight, preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0060] The composition of the invention may contain one or more of the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields such as surfactants; moisturizing agents; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; anti-free radical agents; antioxidants; conservatives; perfumes ; film-forming agents; mother-of-pearl; pigments; dyes; and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more active ingredients. As an example of an active ingredient, and in a nonlimiting manner, ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate (sold by Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA) may be mentioned as examples , the potassium salt of dl-alpha-tocopheryl-21-ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Roche Corporation) under the reference Stay-C 50); phloroglucinol; enzymes; and their mixtures. Among the hydrophilic active agents that are sensitive to oxidation, ascorbic acid is used according to a preferred embodiment of the invention. Ascorbic acid can be of any kind. Thus, it can be of natural origin in powder form or in the form of preferably concentrated orange juice. It can also be of synthetic origin, preferably in powder form. Other active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates; natural extracts; anti-inflammatories; procyannidol oligomers; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol) and other antioxidants such as rosemary extract, vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters ) and their mixtures; urea; caffeine; adenosine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, mushrooms, vegetables, yeasts, bacteria; steroids; anti-bacterial assets; mattifying agents such as fibers; tensors, waxes; UV filters; essential oils ; ceramides; and their mixtures.
[0061] The amounts of these various adjuvants and / or actives are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration. In particular, these amounts vary according to the desired purpose and may for example range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0062] Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additives and / or active ingredients added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not or substantially unaffected by the intended addition. The composition according to the invention can be used for any topical application; in particular, it may constitute a cosmetic or dermatological composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and in particular in the cosmetics field with immediate perceived efficacy. It can in particular be used for care and / or make-up removal of the skin, lips and / or eyes, and also as a composition for hair care. It can also be used as a deodorant or as a sun product, as well as for cleaning the skin. The composition according to the invention may especially be used as a product for cosmetic use for the care of the skin on the anti-aging, oily skin, sun protection, antiperspirants and deodorants, hair and / or scalp products and styling , perfume products as well as makeup products. The subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of a composition as defined above, for the care, removal of makeup and / or the cleansing of the skin, lips and / or eyes, and / or for the hair care. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for removing make-up and / or care of the skin, lips and / or eyes, in which a composition as defined is applied to the skin, the lips and / or the eyes. above. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic hair care process in which a composition as defined above is applied to the hair. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition constitutes a composition for the care of the skin of the body and / or the face, preferably the face. The present invention also relates to an aqueous composition in the form of a dispersion of at least one anhydrous composition as defined above in an aqueous phase.
[0063] The composition according to the invention can be obtained in a conventional manner by those skilled in the art. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is obtained according to the following method: 1) Heating of the fatty phase to obtain a temperature of 70 ° C to 80 ° C as appropriate; 2) Addition of the gelling agent and gelling at 70 ° C. to 80 ° C. as appropriate for 15 minutes under an emulsifier, maximum speed adapted to the volume manufactured; 3) Cooling until a temperature of 35 ° C is reached; 4) Addition of charges at 35 ° C. Dispersion until the disappearance of the clusters and obtaining a homogeneous, smooth and matt juice of macroscopic aspect. 5) Vat drain. The examples which follow will make it possible to better understand the invention, without however being limiting in nature. The raw materials are named by their chemical name or INCI. The quantities indicated are in% by weight of raw materials, unless otherwise indicated. Examples Examples 1-4 The following compositions 1-4 were made. Composition 1 2 3 4 SILICA 35 35 35 35 (Silica Beads SB-300 from the company Myoshi Kasei) DEXTRIN PALMITATE 7.5 7.5 7 7 (RHEOPEARL TL2-OR from CHIBA FLOUR MILLING) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (MYRITOL 318 from COGNIS (BASF) - 28.2 33.45 28.60 OCTYLDODECYL MYRISTATE (GATTEFOSSE MOD) 33.45 - - - PRUNUS ARMENIACA KERNEL OIL (LIPOV LOPOVOL P) 10 10 - - ISOPROPYL PALMITATE (Isopropyl palmitate of COGNIS) 14 14,25 14 14,35 UNDECANE (and) TRIDECANE (CETIOL UT from COGNIS) - 5 - 5 Antioxidant 0,05 0,05 0,05 0,05 Preparation process The fatty phase is homogenized After introduction of the gelling agent, gel phase once the desired temperature reached (70 ° C to 80 ° C as appropriate) Cooling phase then adding any other ingredient of the formula and then charges (temperature ranging from 50 ° C to 32 ° C). Characterization of optical properties The optical properties of compositions 1 to 4 have been characterized using the measurement of Blur or Haze (sail or tracing effect) with a commercial device of the "Hazemeter" type. The measurements were carried out according to the following protocol: on a transparent plastic film (Byk), a layer of 25.4 μm of wet thickness of the composition whose blur is to be evaluated is spread, using a automatic spreader. The mixture is allowed to dry for 1 hour at room temperature and then the blur index (or Haze) is measured using a BYK GARDNER brand HAZE GARD. The values obtained for the compositions 1 to 10 are as follows: Composition 1 2 3 4 Haze measured 60 80 65.2 89.3 As a guide, it is considered that between 20 and 60, a weak focus, between 60 and 80, we got a good soft focus effect, and from 90, we got a very good soft-focus effect. These measurements therefore show that the compositions in accordance with the invention make it possible to obtain an important soft focus effect.
[0064] Examples 5 to 9 The following compositions 5 to 9 were prepared. Composition 5 6 7 LAUROYL LYSINE 35 35 35 (AJINOMOTO LL AMINOPHONE) DEXTRIN MYRISTATE - 7 - (RHEOPEARL MKL2 from CHIBA FLOUR MILLING) TRI HYDROXYSTEARI N 6.5 - 7.8 (THIXCIN R from ELEMENTIS) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (MYRITOL 318 of COGNIS (BASF) - - 48.2 DICAPRYLYL ETHER (CETIOL COGNIS OE) 30 - - OCTYLDODECYL MYRISTATE (GATTEFOSSE MOD) - 58 - ISOPROPYL PALMITATE 28.5 - - (Isopropyl palmitate of COGNIS) UNDECANE (and) TRIDECANE (CETIOL UT of COGNIS) - - 9 Composition 8 9 LAUROYL LYSINE 25 20 (AMIHOPE LL of AJINOMOTO) DEXTRIN MYRISTATE 7.5 - (RHEOPEARL MKL2 of CHIBA FLOUR MILLING) TRI HYDROXYSTEARI N - 9.6 (THIXCIN R of ELEMENTIS) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (MYRITOL 318 from COGNIS (BASF) 67,5-DICAPRYLYL ETHER (CETIOL COGNIS OE) - - OCTYLDODECYL MYRISTATE (GATTEFOSSE MOD) - - ISOPROPYL PALMITATE - - (Isopropyl palmitate from COGNIS) ISOPROPYL ISOSTEARATE (RADIA 7739 d OLEON) - 50.4 UNDECANE (and) TRIDECANE (CETIOL UT from COGNIS) - 20 Preparation process The oily phase is homogenized. After introduction of the gelling agent, gelling phase once the desired temperature is reached (70 ° C. to 80 ° C. as the case may be). Cooling phase then adding any other ingredient of the formula and then charges (temperature ranging from 50 ° C to 32 ° C).
[0065] Characterization of Optical Properties The optical properties of compositions 5 to 9 were characterized using the measurement of Blur or Haze (haze effect or tracing) with a commercial device of "Hazemeter" type. The measurements were carried out according to the following protocol: on a transparent plastic film (Byk), a layer of 25.4 μm of wet thickness of the composition whose blur is to be evaluated is spread, using a automatic spreader. The mixture is allowed to dry for 1 hour at room temperature and then the blur index (or Haze) is measured using a BYK GARDNER brand HAZE GARD. The values obtained for compositions 5 to 9 are the following: Composition 5 6 7 8 9 Haze measured 85.1 79.1 90.5 74.23 79.4 As a guide, it is considered that between 20 and 60, we got a weak soft-focus effect, between 60 and 80, we got a good soft focus effect, and from 90, we got a very good soft-focus effect. These measurements therefore show that the compositions in accordance with the invention make it possible to obtain an important soft focus effect.
[0066] Examples 10 to 12 The following compositions 10 to 12 were produced. Composition 10 11 12 CELLULOSE 50 - - (CELLULOBEADS D-10 from DAITO KASEI KOGYO) CELLULOSE - 35 (DAITO KASEI CELLULOBEADS D-5) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (MYRITOL 318 from COGNIS (BASF) 45 34 - OCTYLDODECYL MYRISTATE (MOD of GATTEFOSSE) - - 33,45 ISOPROPYL PALMITATE - - 14 (Isopropyl palmitate of COGNIS) PRUNUS ARMENIACA KERNEL OIL (LIPOVOL P of LIPO CHEMICALS) - - 10 UNDECANE (and) TRIDECANE (CETIOL UT of COGNIS) - 25 - TRI HYDROXYSTEARI N - 6 - (THIXCIN R of ELEMENTIS) DEXTRIN PALMITATE - - 7.5 (RHEOPEARL TL2-OR from CHIBA FLOUR MILLING) DEXTRIN MYRISTATE 5 - - (RHEOPEARL MKL2 from CHIBA FLOUR MILLING) Preparation process The fat phase is homogenized After introduction of the gelling agent, gelling phase once the desired temperature has been reached (70 ° C. to 80 ° C. as the case may be).
[0067] Cooling phase then adding any other ingredient of the formula and then charges (temperature ranging from 50 ° C to 32 ° C). Characterization of the optical properties The optical properties of the compositions 10 to 12 were characterized using the measurement of blur or haze (sail or tracing effect) with a commercial device of "Hazemeter" type. The measurements were carried out according to the following protocol: on a transparent plastic film (Byk), a layer of 25.4 μm of wet thickness of the composition whose blur is to be evaluated is spread, using a automatic spreader. The mixture is allowed to dry for 1 hour at room temperature and then the blur index (or Haze) is measured using a BYK GARDNER brand HAZE GARD. The values obtained for the compositions 10 to 12 are as follows: Composition 10 11 12 Haze measured 85.2 95.5 77 As an indication, it is considered that between 20 and 60, a weak soft-focus effect was obtained, between 60 and 80, we got a good soft focus effect, and from 90, we got a very good soft-focus effect. These measurements therefore show that the compositions in accordance with the invention make it possible to obtain an important soft focus effect.

权利要求:
Claims (22)
[0001]
REVENDICATIONS1. An anhydrous composition comprising: - from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent; from 20% to 50% by weight of at least one filler chosen from porous silica spherical particles, spherical cellulose particles, and N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, Guerbet alcohol derivatives, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet fatty acid esters of alcohol, fatty alcohol ethers having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, and alkanes linear, preferably hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, derivatives of Guerbet alcohol, preferably Guerbet alcohols and esters of fatty acid and Guerbet alcohol, and linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0002]
2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the lipophilic gelling agent (s) is (are) chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters and tri-esters of fatty acid and mono or polyglycerol, preferably dextrin esters and fatty acid.
[0003]
3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2 wherein the ester or esters of dextrin and fatty acids are chosen from mono- or poly-esters of dextrin and at least one fatty acid corresponding to the formula Wherein: n is an integer ranging from 3 to 150, especially from 10 to 100, and preferably from 15 to 40, the radicals R 1, R 2 and R 3 represent a hydrogen atom; hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 50, in particular 8 to 30, or even 12 to 22 and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. carbon, provided that at least one of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 is different from a hydrogen atom.
[0004]
4. Composition according to claim 3 wherein the ester or esters of dextrin and of fatty acids is a compound of formula (C) in which: n advantageously varies from 25 to 35, preferably from 27 to 33, and better still equal to 30, the R-CO- radical is chosen from caprylyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutyryl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptanyl, 2-ethylhexanyl, isononanyl and isodecanyl radicals. isotridecanyl, isomyristyl, isopalmityl, isostearyl, isohexanyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitolyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicyl, arachidonyl, stearolyl, and mixtures thereof, preferably the radical R -CO- is the palmityl radical or the myristyl radical, and even more preferably the palmityl radical.
[0005]
5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein the fatty acid or tri-esters of fatty acid and mono or polyglycerol is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acid, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, still more preferably from 12 to 22, and more preferably from 16 to 20 carbon atoms, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, preferably a linear, saturated acid; substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0006]
6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 wherein the tri or esters of fatty acid and mono or polyglycerol are chosen from tri-esters of fatty acid and monoglycerol, preferably tri ( hydroxystearate), and even more preferentially glyceryl tris (12-hydroxystearate).
[0007]
7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein the charge or fillers are selected from spherical particles of porous silica.
[0008]
8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein the charge or fillers are selected from spherical particles of cellulose.
[0009]
9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 wherein the charge or fillers are chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders.
[0010]
10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 comprising from 45% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase, preferably from 45% to 75% by weight, and even more preferably from 57% to 70% by weight. % by weight of the total weight of the composition.
[0011]
11. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 wherein the fatty phase comprises at least 25% by weight of at least two oils selected from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, derivatives thereof. Guerbet alcohol, preferably Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol and fatty acid esters, and linear alkanes.
[0012]
12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 wherein the hydrocarbon or oils of vegetable origin are chosen from squalane, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of acids. heptanoic or octanoic oils or jojoba, babassu, sunflower, olive, coconut, brazil nut, marula, maize, soya, squash, grape seed, flax, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, shea butter oil, preferably triglycerides of caprylic acids / capric.
[0013]
13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 wherein the volatile linear alkane (s), advantageously of plant origin, comprise from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, preferably are selected from n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane ( C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), n-hexadecane (C16) and n-heptadecane (C17) and mixtures thereof, and even more preferably are chosen from a mixture of undecane (C11) and tridecane (C13), n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14).
[0014]
14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 wherein the Guerbet alcohols or derivatives of Guerbet alcohols are selected from Guerbet alcohols and esters of Guerbet alcohols, preferably from octyldodecanol and octyldodecanol esters such as octyldodecyl myristate.
[0015]
15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 wherein the fatty alcohol ethers are fatty alcohol ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 12, and even more preferably from 8 to 12 carbon atoms. at 10, obtainable from two different fatty alcohols or two identical fatty alcohols, and preferably from two identical fatty acids such as caprylic alcohol (also called octan-1-ol or n-octanol).
[0016]
16. An anhydrous composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 comprising: - from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin palmitate ; from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical particles of porous silica; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, preferably triglycerides, and at least 5% by weight of at least one oil selected from linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0017]
17. An anhydrous composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 comprising: - from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from tri-esters of fatty acid and mono or polyglycerol such as glyceryl tri-hydroxy stearate; from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 45% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 40% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, preferably triglycerides, and at least 5% by weight of at least one oil selected from linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0018]
18. An anhydrous composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 comprising: - from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dextrin and fatty acid esters, preferably dextrin myristate ; from 40% to 50% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical cellulose particles; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 40% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0019]
19. An anhydrous composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 comprising: - from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from tri-esters of fatty acid and mono or polyglycerol such as glyceryl tri-hydroxy stearate; from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from spherical cellulose particles; and from 45% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, preferably triglycerides, and at least 20% by weight of at least one oil selected from linear alkanes; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0020]
20. An anhydrous composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15 comprising: - from 3% to 15% by weight of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from tri-esters of fatty acid and mono or polyglycerol such as glyceryl tri-hydroxy stearate; from 30% to 40% by weight of at least one filler chosen from N-acylated amino acid powders; and from 40% to 85% by weight of at least one fatty phase containing at least 25% by weight of at least one oil chosen from fatty alcohol ethers containing from 6 to 20 carbon atoms; the amounts by weight being given relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0021]
21. A process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials in which a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 20 is applied to the keratin materials.
[0022]
22. Aqueous composition in the form of a dispersion of at least one anhydrous composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 20 in an aqueous phase.

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同族专利:

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公开号 | 公开日

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CN106794119A|2017-05-31|

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WO2016001577A1|2016-01-07|

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FR3022776B1|2018-03-02|

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KR20170018966A|2017-02-20|

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JP2017519830A|2017-07-20|

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US20170143616A1|2017-05-25|

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ES2856218T3|2021-09-27|

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EP3160424B1|2020-12-09|

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EP3160424A1|2017-05-03|

引用文献:

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公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题

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EP1386600A1|2002-08-02|2004-02-04|L'oreal|Composition gelled with a dextrin ester|

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FR2843021A1|2002-08-02|2004-02-06|Oreal|Composition for e.g. lipstick comprises fatty acid ester of dextrin as thickener and gelling agent|

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FR2954103A1|2009-12-18|2011-06-24|Oreal|Anhydrous cosmetic composition, useful for care and/or make-up of keratin materials, preferably skin and as foundation, eyeshadow and lipstick, comprises continuous fatty phase, volatile linear alkane and dextrin fatty acid ester|

---

FR2975297A1|2011-05-18|2012-11-23|Oreal|Liquid composition, useful for making up/caring e.g. lip, comprises polyester obtained by reacting tetraol, monocarboxylic acid, cyclic dicarboxylic acid and aryl monocarboxylic acid, non-volatile silicone oil and dextrin fatty acid ester|WO2020099749A3|2018-11-13|2020-07-23|Laboratoires M&L|Cosmetic composition capable of turning into powder|JP2627642B2|1988-06-11|1997-07-09|チッソ株式会社|Powder cosmetics|

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US20030157041A1|2000-01-13|2003-08-21|Dreher John D.|Optical makeup compositon|

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JP2003300816A|2002-04-04|2003-10-21|Tokiwa Corp|Oily solid cosmetic|

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FR2843020B1|2002-08-02|2007-10-26|Oreal|COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A MIXTURE OF DETERRATED ESTERS|

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US20040096472A1|2002-08-02|2004-05-20|Florence Tournilhac|Composition gelled with a dextrin ester|

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EP1798213A1|2005-12-14|2007-06-20|Cognis IP Management GmbH|Process for the production of hydrocarbons|

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GB0607500D0|2006-04-13|2006-05-24|Ici Plc|Structurants for oil phases|

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FR2960773B1|2010-06-03|2015-12-11|Oreal|COSMETIC PROCESSING METHODS USING A POLYAMIDE-POLYETHER POLYMER-BASED COATING|

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WO2012012497A2|2010-07-23|2012-01-26|The Procter & Gamble Company|Cosmetic composition|

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FR2966834B1|2010-10-27|2012-12-28|Sensient Cosmetic Technologies|AQUEOUS PIGMENT DISPERSION AND COSMETIC USES THEREOF|

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JP5491540B2|2012-01-24|2014-05-14|信越化学工業株式会社|Manufacturing method of cosmetics|

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JP2013231020A|2012-04-28|2013-11-14|Daito Kasei Kogyo Kk|Cosmetic|FR3022775B1|2014-06-30|2018-03-02|L'oreal|ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LIPOPHILIC GELIFIER, AT LEAST TWO SEPARATE LOADS OF ANOTHER AND A FATTY PHASE|

---

FR3045326B1|2015-12-18|2018-01-12|L'oreal|COMPOSITION BASED ON AN AQUEOUS PHASE CONTAINING A DISPERSION OF ANHYDROUS COMPOSITE MATERIAL|

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US11039993B2|2018-09-25|2021-06-22|L'oreal|Compositions with natural oils for providing a protective barrier|

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US20200093722A1|2018-09-25|2020-03-26|L'oreal|Compositions for providing a protective barrier|

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DE102019209661A1|2019-07-02|2021-01-07|Beiersdorf Ag|Lipid mixture made from liquid oils, hydrogenated vegetable oils and shea butter|

法律状态:
2015-06-08| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 2 |

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2016-01-01| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20160101 |

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2016-05-16| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 3 |

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2017-05-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 4 |

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2018-05-11| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 5 |

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2020-05-12| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 7 |

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2021-05-14| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |

优先权:

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申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题

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FR1456211|2014-06-30|

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FR1456211A|FR3022776B1|2014-06-30|2014-06-30|ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LIPOPHILIC GELIFIER, AT LEAST ONE PARTICULAR CHARGE AND A FATTY PHASE|FR1456211A| FR3022776B1|2014-06-30|2014-06-30|ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION COMPRISING A LIPOPHILIC GELIFIER, AT LEAST ONE PARTICULAR CHARGE AND A FATTY PHASE|

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EP15745530.4A| EP3160424B1|2014-06-30|2015-06-30|Anhydrous composition comprising a lipophilic gelling agent, at least a specific filler and a fatty phase|

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CN201580046471.9A| CN106794119A|2014-06-30|2015-06-30|Anhydrous composition comprising lipophilic gelling agents, at least one specific filler and oil phase|

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US15/322,488| US20170143616A1|2014-06-30|2015-06-30|Anhydrous composition including a lipophilic gelling agent, at least one specific filler and an oil phase|

---

ES15745530T| ES2856218T3|2014-06-30|2015-06-30|Anhydrous composition comprising a lipophilic gelling agent, at least one particular filler and a fatty phase|

---

PCT/FR2015/051799| WO2016001577A1|2014-06-30|2015-06-30|Anhydrous composition including a lipophilic gelling agent, at least one specific filler and an oil phase|

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JP2017520012A| JP2017519830A|2014-06-30|2015-06-30|An anhydrous composition comprising a lipophilic gelling agent, at least one specific filler and an oil phase|

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KR1020177002409A| KR20170018966A|2014-06-30|2015-06-30|Anhydrous composition including a lipophilic gelling agent, at least one specific filler and an oil phase|